Development and development of multi-component new functional yarns
Development and development of multi-component new functional yarns for product development Luo Dongyi, Yang Enping, Huang Jianchun (Demian Group Hengfeng Textile Co., Ltd., Dezhou 253002, Shandong) Existing ordinary yarns have more or less defects. For example, fabrics made of pure cotton yarn have poor wrinkle resistance, wool textiles have poor machine washability, and some chemical fiber products also have insufficient pilling static electricity, so they cannot meet the needs of people for wearing various functions such as comfort. To this end, our company has developed a multi-component new functional yarn to meet the needs of the market. According to the different combinations of the products, it can have anti-pilling anti-static anti-vine anti-machine washing and other functions. We first collected information on various new raw materials that have been industrially produced on the market, and investigated the current situation and trend of market demand. Based on the existing work foundation and enterprise characteristics, the product development plan and implementation plan and measures have been formulated to ensure the smooth development of the development work. The multi-component new functional yarn variety program considers the use of the final product when formulating the plan. Taking the main, mainly from the knitted underwear products, according to the fiber varieties that have been mastered, the main body is positioned in the development of high-sensitivity products, and at the same time will create conditions for the development of other functional yarns and the development of their final products. The proposed variety plan is as follows: three components of wool + soy protein modified fiber as the fourth variety, the main purpose is to master the spinnability of soy protein fiber and its functional characteristics after compatibility with wool. Cashmere fiber is light in texture, soft to the touch, elastic, warm, soft and lustrous, similar to wool However, there is no medullary layer, the scales are close to the hair shaft, have irregular curl, good fluffiness, strong elastic recovery ability, fast dyeing and color absorption, high dyeing rate, bright color after dyeing, high price, and soft gold. Said.
As a new type of vegetable protein modified fiber, soy protein modified fiber has unique properties, fine fiber fineness and silky luster, which makes the designed product rich in silk texture; the fiber feels soft and smooth, and the wool keeps warm. Sex, so that the fabric has a good comfort, so the soy protein modified fiber is known as "artificial cashmere". The excellent moisture absorption and moisture permeability of the fiber enables the fiber to manufacture a variety of underwear. In the process of human body wear, the body is kept dry and comfortable. Tencel is a new type of environmentally friendly cellulose fiber. The academic name of this fiber is Lyocell, Tencel is The brand name of Lyocell fiber produced by Acordis. In 1998, A-cordis introduced Tencel A100 non-fibrillated fiber. In addition to fibrillation, the fiber also has all the characteristics of the original Tencel fiber. Because it does not require special equipment for fibrillation, Tencel A100 The application prospects in the textile field are very broad. Modal fiber is a kind of “green†fiber that meets environmental protection requirements. It has the characteristics of natural fiber, good moisture absorption and permeability, soft hand feeling, fast water absorption, large water capacity, excellent skin contact performance and elasticity. Large, good wear resistance and bright color after dyeing.
Compared with the conventional acrylic fiber, the fine acrylic fiber has the original characteristics of the conventional acrylic fiber, because of its low fineness, making the textile feel softer, the cloth style is fine, and the cotton knot is produced by repeated taking comfort. Both the roller and the doffer are reduced in the characteristics of the high-strength, soft-wearing, high-elasticity, small modulus and small mass. The main physical properties of the raw materials used are shown in Table 1. Table 1 Main physical properties of various raw materials Performance Soy cashmere fine cotton-type acrylic fiber length (mm) dry strength (cN wet strength (cN dry elongation (%) wet stretch Long rate (%) dry modulus (cN moisture regain (%) due to the difference in the fineness of the above various fibers, the elongation and regain rate are different, the degree of static electricity generated during the spinning process is different, and the length of the cashmere fiber is not very high. Neat, low strength, curling, spinning process design and spinning process should take into account the characteristics of different fibers, meet the requirements of yarn forming standards. 3 Spinning process 3.1 Process flow (pre-parallel) winding process 3.2 process configuration And the main process parameters 3.2.1 clearing process according to the requirements of Modal fiber and nylon fiber split cleaning, the use of more loose, more comb, less hit, low speed, anti-stick roll process.
In order to reduce the hitting point, only one A036C is used in the process, and the speed of the beater and the speed of the roll are reduced. To prevent fiber entanglement, the height of the A092A blending box is up to 1/3, and the upper opening of the V-shaped curtain is properly enlarged. Quantitative 380g/m, lap length: 36m, lap speed 10 rpm 3.2.2 carding process Because Modal fiber and nylon fiber have better elasticity, and fiber cohesion is poor, to ensure the quality of cotton net, reduce the cause The fiber is low, the dust removing knife adopts the high knife small angle process, the closed small leaking bottom is used, the speed ratio of the cylinder is large, the spacing of the cylinder cover is appropriately increased, the pressure of the pressing machine is increased, and the tension of the sliver is properly drafted. Reduced.
The specific process parameters are: the speed of the licking roller is 800 rpm, the distance between the cotton plate and the licker roller is 0.30 mm, the distance between the licker roller and the cylinder is Q15 mm, the speed of the cylinder is 330 rpm, the speed of the cover plate is 73 mm/min, and the distance between the cylinder and the cover is 0.280. .250.23 degrees 22 rpm, sliver weight 18. Because Modal fiber and nylon fiber have the characteristics of easy fluffiness and good resilience, in order to prevent fiber entanglement, large gauge, slow speed, small tension drafting are adopted in the pre-stocking process. Craft. 8 joints, drawing 8.2 times, roller spacer 12mm<16mm, front roller speed 150m/min, sliver weight 18.1g/5m mixed in three lanes, due to the addition of cashmere fiber, the roller gauge is enlarged to 30mm, before Roller speed 3.2.4 roving process is easy to break due to cashmere, Modal fiber and nylon fiber have good resilience, and the draw ratio and tension draft in the back zone are small. The twist is slightly higher than the front roller speed of 190 rpm and the roller gauge is 24mnK29mm. Stretching factor 7 times, rear zone drafting 1.35 times, æ» coefficient 85, axial winding density 3.542 laps/cm 3.2.5 Spinning process due to the large roving twist, for smooth untwisting, the rear compartment is properly enlarged, the front roller The speed should be reduced. The front rubber roller is made of soft elastic rubber roller. The steel wire ring is heavier than the cotton spinning machine to reduce the front roller speed of the hairiness by 35mm. The development of the rear zone is more than 4 multi-component full-form knitted underwear. 4.1 Process raw materials enter the factory Inspection + weaving - semi-finished product inspection - pre-treatment - dyeing + dehydration + drying - sewing - packaging - storage 4.2 weaving process design and weaving 4. 2.1 equipment selection E28, cylinder diameter: 33cm4.2.2 raw material selection 13tex three groups Minutes (cashmere / Modal cotton type nylon nylon wrapped yarn 4. 2.3 On the machine configuration 357 road feed 2dtex nylon wax wrapped yarn; full-form jacquard tight-fitting knit vest and shorts on the machine program slightly) 4.3 dyeing and finishing process design and processing 4.3.1 pre-treatment (a equipment: MS-2211 type room temperature The scouring machine (b) prescription and process conditions are shown in Table 2 Table 2 Pre-treatment prescriptions and process items Dosage bath temperature (*C) 3.2 Dyeing (a) Equipment: PG-125 type room temperature dyeing machine (b) Prescription and process conditions See Table 3 Table 3 Dyeing Prescription and Process Item Usage Reactive Red (%) Reactive Yellow (%) Auxiliary Alkali (g/L) Dyeing Temperature (*C) Fixing Temperature (*C) Bath Ratio 100*C, Bake 15min When the hand feels slightly wet, turn off the steam and cool the air until the temperature is lowered.
Left and right process points and precautions: temperature should not be too high. 5 Conclusion After nearly one year of hard work, we have successfully developed multi-component functional yarns, and at the same time formed a mature production process and small batch production. It laid the foundation for the smooth development of future technology development work.
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